Rule 0: EXPOSURES MUST ALWAYS BE RAW (JPEG IS NOT ALLOWED) Reason being you need all the data sets in the fraction of time you are capturing when you press your shutter. For editing purposes, & copyright purposes, & passive income purposes [monopolizing your work]. Shooting in JPEG would be like exporting a new track as a MP3 instead of a WAV file. Shoot RAW but don’t forget to wrap that puppy.
Beauty Light: 45 degree angle “Fronty” top light which cuts a defined jawline for more enhanced definition of your subject. Using “top light” can fully illuminate eyes & prove to smooth skin. It can also be used at 3/4 position for enhanced or extra shadow or more “fronty” or top light for no shadow on subject. Can be used to make skin [Light] appear hard [most definition] or soft [soothing] varying on own discretion.
Sunny 16 rule: On sunny day set ƒ/16 & Shutter to the reciprocal of the ISO (Film) speed.
EX: if Film (ISO) is 200, shutter should be (1/200 or 1/250)
For photographing moon set ƒ/11 & follow same instructions
Camera Shake: to avoid use a shutter speed equal to the inverse of the focal length of your lens EX: for a 100mm lens expos should be done at 1/100 sec, 35 mm = 1/35 sec
“in focus” focus lens at tip of subjects nose, then focus on the WHOLE face, everything else that is the same distance away from your cam will be focused.
Blink of an eye is 1/3 (300-400 milliseconds) 1000 milliseconds = 1 second
looking in a specific space the eye can see up to 576 megapixels of data, a glance drops to 5-15 megapixels
Maximum Aperture: the biggest hole your camera has, the bigger the hole the more light can enter the camera.
The smaller # the ƒstop the larger the aperture creating narrow DOP (depth of field)
The larger # the ƒstop the smaller the aperture creating a wide DOP
ƒ/stop = aperture
DOP is a zone of acceptable sharpness.
Canon 6d M2: 26 MP, 35.90 x 24 MM
Full frame: 36 x 24mm (Focal on lens AS IS)
Traditional Film cameras are 35mm
APS-C are cropped sensors they are 25x16mm with crop of (1.5x or 1.6x)
4/3 Crop: 17.3 x 13mm, with a crop of 2x the lens attached 200mm lens would be 400 mm on this cam.
Short focal length about (24mm & below) known as wide angel lenses do as interpreted by capturing wider fields of view. Best for Landscapes, Indoor photography, and Architectural.
medium local (25mm-60mm)
telephoto focal (67-299mm) essentially works as a pair of binoculars enhancing subject that are farther away. Best for Portraits, Sports, Wildlife, and Concerts. Super telephoto (300mm & above)
Stopping motion - occurs when shutter speed is slower than your focal length. Expos of a 50 mm lens should be slower than 1/50 sec
Hyperspace Effect: With tripod zoom on moving subject while shutter is open, moving the cam to keep the subject in front of frame (shutter of 1/25 sec)
Flash Freeze - uses a flash to create double exposure blur with zooming motion (shutter 1/3 sec)
Waterfalls: Long Shutter (tripod) 1/20 sec, F/11, ISO (low)
Lightning: Slow shutter (2-5 sec) F/8, ISO 400
Car Photography : plain background for less distraction
Beware reflections, try to have an empty space behind you, no trees or buildings.
“painting”: expos should be done at night, find a completely dark space (No Moon or Street lights), then set you Film (100), Shutter (30 secs), ƒ/9. when the shutter opens take a flashlight and walk around the perimeter of the vehicle.
Motion Blur: pan the vehicle by following it with your lens in one smooth motion Shutter (1/125)
Out Window: For 40mph (60km/h) Shutter of 1/100, large ƒ (small #) , be cautious
CAM MODES
AV (A) Aperture priority, you select the F/stop & Cam calibrates shutter adjust ISO based on shutter. Generally used from controlling DOP.
TV (S) Shutter priority, you select Shutter and camera calculates aperture based on available light. This mode is for sports and motion were you need a minimum shutter in order to “stop action”.
P (Program) F/Stop & Shutter is calculated for you. Adjust wheel for small F/stop (faster shutter) or larger F/stop (slow shutter)